Nguyen, Thanh (2018) Barriers to become a fashion influencer. Masters thesis, Concordia University.
Preview |
Text (application/pdf)
945kBThanh Nguyen - Master Thesis .pdf - Accepted Version Available under License Spectrum Terms of Access. |
Abstract
It has been argued that the participatory Web has democratized markets such as fashion. Consumers have been theorized to be able to acquire a “megaphone” and become influencers. Such consumer influencers have been increasingly used for marketing purposes because of their persuasive power. Various studies have focused on the existence of these influencers, how to manage their influence and the impact of their influence. Despite claims of democratization, it is unlikely that all consumers can become influencers. Little research has examined the struggles everyday consumers face during their journey to become an influencer. Consequently, I intend to answer the following question through my study: What are the barriers to become a fashion influencer? Employing a qualitative approach and combining in-depth interviews of six wannabe-fashion influencers, a netnography and archival data, I find that in their quest to acquire a megaphone, wannabe-influencers face four main struggles. These struggles emerge as they are leaving their role as everyday consumers and starting to acquire some influence. I conceptualize this as being “stuck-in-between”. I find four ways consumers are stuck in-between these two roles: between different fields; between celebrity status and non-celebrity status; between amateur and professional; and between geographical periphery and center. I apply concepts from Bourdieu’s field theory to inform how being stuck in-between results in the incapacity of everyday consumers to accumulate enough capital to fully become an influencer. My study benefits existing research on field theory and influencers. It also has managerial implications, as the barriers faced by consumers lead to strategic recommendations for fashion marketers, brand managers, and designers to better develop their influencer marketing campaign, letting them work more efficiently with influencers, and producing better results.
Divisions: | Concordia University > John Molson School of Business > Marketing |
---|---|
Item Type: | Thesis (Masters) |
Authors: | Nguyen, Thanh |
Institution: | Concordia University |
Degree Name: | M. Sc. |
Program: | Administration (Marketing option) |
Date: | 24 July 2018 |
Thesis Supervisor(s): | Pierre-Yann, Dolbec |
ID Code: | 984076 |
Deposited By: | Thanh Nguyen |
Deposited On: | 16 Nov 2018 16:50 |
Last Modified: | 16 Nov 2018 16:50 |
References:
Abidin, C. (2016). “Aren’t these just young, rich women doing vain things online?”: Influencer selfies as subversive frivolity. Social Media+ Society, 2(2), 2056305116641342Abidin, C., & Thompson, E. C. (2012, November). Buymylife. com: Cyber-femininities and commercial intimacy in blogshops. Women's Studies International Forum (Vol. 35, No. 6, pp. 467-477). Pergamon.
Ahuvia, A. C. (2005). Beyond the extended self: Loved objects and consumers’ identity narratives. Journal of Consumer Research, 32(6), 171–184. doi: 10.1086/429607.
Anthony C. (2015), Why Instagram is so important to Millennials, IconoSquare, Apr 22, https://blog.iconosquare.com/instagram-important-millennials/.
Arsel, Z., & Bean, J. (2013). Taste regimes and market-mediated practice. Journal of Consumer Research, 39(5), 899-917
Arsel, Z., & Thompson, C. J. (2010). Demythologizing consumption practices: How consumers protect their field-dependent identity investments from devaluing marketplace myths. Journal of Consumer Research, 37(5), 791-806.
Banet-Weiser, S. (1999). The most beautiful girl in the world: Beauty pageants and national identity. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
Belk, R. W., Kozinets, R. V., & Fischer, E. (2013). Qualitative Research in Marketing and Consumer Behavior.
Bourdieu, P. (1986), “The Forms of Capital,” Handbook of Theory and Research for the Sociology of Education, ed. John G. Richardson, London: Greenwood, 241–58.
Bourdieu, P. (1989). Social space and symbolic power. Sociological Theory, 7(1), 14–25.
Bourdieu, P. (1991). Language and Symbolic Power. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
Bourdieu, P. (1993). The Field of Cultural Production: Essays on Art and Literature. Cambridge: Polity Press.
Bourdieu, P. (1996). The rules of art: Genesis and structure of the literary field. Stanford University Press
Bourdieu, P. (1998). Practical Reason: On the Theory of Action. Cambridge: Polity.
Bourdieu, P. (1999). On Television. New York: New Press.
Bourdieu, P. (2008). Sketch for a Self-Analysis. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Bourdieu, P., & Wacquant, L. (1992). Introduction to Reflexive Sociology. Chicago: Chicago University Press.
Bramley, E. (2017). Homing Insta: why fashion influencers are moving into interiors, The Guardian, 12 Jun, https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2017/jun/12/homing-insta-why-fashion-influencers-are-moving-into-interiors.
BryanBoy & Evan, C (2016), How Instagram Changed Fashion, The Antidote, 10 May, http://magazineantidote.com/english/how-instagram-changed-fashion/.
Cartner-Morley, J. (2015). Instagram: welcome to fashion’s new front row, The Guardian, 25 Sep, https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/sep/25/instagram-the-new-catwalk-of-fashion.
Chang, M. (2017). Three Influencers On How They Get That Perfect Instagram Shot, Elle, 01 Sep, https://www.elle.com.au/fashion/how-to-pose-for-instagram-14238.
Codinha, A., Mower, S., Phelps, N., & Singer, S. (2016). Ciao, Milano! Vogue.com's Editors Discuss the Week That Was, Vogue, 25 Sep, https://www.vogue.com/article/milan-fashion-week-spring-2017-vogue-editors-chat.
Colliander, J., & Erlandsson, S. (2015). The blog and the bountiful: Exploring the effects of disguised product placement on blogs that are revealed by a third party. Journal of Marketing Communications, 21(2), 110-124.
Coskuner-Balli, Gokcen, and Craig J. Thompson. "The status costs of subordinate cultural capital: At-home fathers’ collective pursuit of cultural legitimacy through capitalizing consumption practices." Journal of Consumer Research 40.1 (2012): 19-41.
Djafarova, E., & Rushworth, C. (2017). Exploring the credibility of online celebrities' Instagram profiles in influencing the purchase decisions of young female users. Computers in Human Behavior, 68, 1-7.
Dolbec, P. Y., & Fischer, E. (2015). Refashioning a field? Connected consumers and institutional dynamics in markets. Journal of Consumer Research, 41(6), 1447-1468.
Duffy, B. E. (2017). (Not) getting paid to do what you love: Gender, social media, and aspirational work. Yale University Press.
Easley, D., & Kleinberg, J. (2010). Networks, crowds, and markets: Reasoning about a highly connected world. New York, NY: Cambridge University Press.
Freberg, K., Graham, K., McGaughey, K., & Freberg, L. A. (2011). Who are the social media influencers? A study of public perceptions of personality. Public Relations Review, 37(1), 90-92.
Grenfell, M. J. (Ed.). (2014). Pierre Bourdieu: key concepts. Routledge.
Griffith, Erin (2011). ‘Bloggers Mean Business’, AdWeek, 13 Sept, http://www.adweek.com/news/advertisingbranding/bloggers-mean-business-134757. Retrieved 28 June 2016.
Gronow, J. (1997). The Sociology of Taste. Routledge: London.
Hearn, A., & Schoenhoff, S. (2016). From celebrity to influencer (pp. 194-212). Wiley: London.
Holt, D. B. (1998). Does cultural capital structure American consumption?. Journal of consumer research, 25(1), 1-25.
Hu, Y., Manikonda, L., & Kambhampati, S. (2014, June). What We Instagram: A First Analysis of Instagram Photo Content and User Types. In Icwsm.
Jensen S, H., & Gilly, M. C. (2003). We are what we post? Self-presentation in personal web space. Journal of consumer research, 30(3), 385-404
Jin, S. A. A., & Phua, J. (2014). Following celebrities’ tweets about brands: The impact of twitter-based electronic word-of-mouth on consumers’ source credibility perception, buying intention, and social identification with celebrities. Journal of Advertising, 43(2), 181-195.
Kates, S. M. (2002). The protean quality of subcultural consumption: An ethnographic account of gay consumers. Journal of consumer research, 29(3), 383-399.
Kessler, S. (2017). Becoming a social media “influencer” is the new unpaid internship, and just as exploitative, Quartz, 10 Aug, https://qz.com/1049408/becoming-a-social-media-influencer-is-the-new-unpaid-internship-and-just-as-exploitative/.
Kim, E., Sung, Y., & Kang, H. (2014). Brand followers’ retweeting behavior on Twitter: How brand relationships influence brand electronic word-of-mouth. Computers in Human Behavior, 37, 18-25.
Kjeldgaard, D., & Askegaard, S. (2006). The glocalization of youth culture: The global youth segment as structures of common difference. Journal of consumer research, 33(2), 231-247.
Kozinets, R. V., De Valck, K., Wojnicki, A. C., & Wilner, S. J. (2010). Networked narratives: Understanding word-of-mouth marketing in online communities. Journal of marketing, 74(2), 71-89.
Lee, J. E., & Watkins, B. (2016). YouTube vloggers' influence on consumer luxury brand perceptions and intentions. Journal of Business Research, 69(12), 5753-5760.
Lloyd, R. (2004). The neighborhood in cultural production: Material and symbolic resources in the new bohemia. City & Community, 3(4), 343-372
Manikonda, L., Venkatesan, R., Kambhampati, S., & Li, B. (2015). Trending Chic: Analyzing the Influence of Social Media on Fashion Brands. arXiv preprint arXiv:1512.01174
Masip, P., Guallar, J., Suau, J., Ruiz-Caballero, C., & Peralta, M. (2015). News and social networks: Audience behavior. El Profesional De La Información, 24(4), 363-370.
Mccreesh, N. (2016). Vogue’s attack on style bloggers shows how much the newcomers have the fashion mags rattled. The Conversation, 30 Sep, http://theconversation.com/vogues-attack-on-style-bloggers-shows-how-much-the-newcomers-have-the-fashion-mags-rattled-66340.
McQuarrie, E. F., Miller, J., & Phillips, B. J. (2012). The megaphone effect: Taste and audience in fashion blogging. Journal of Consumer Research, 40(1), 136-158.
Mears, A. (2014). Aesthetic labor for the sociologies of work, gender, and beauty. Sociology Compass, 8(12), 1330-1343
Mears, A., & Finlay, W. (2005). Not just a paper doll: How models manage bodily capital and why they perform emotional labor. Journal of Contemporary Ethnography, 34(3), 317-343
Phua, J., Jin, S. V., & Kim, J. J. (2017). Gratifications of using Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, or Snapchat to follow brands: The moderating effect of social comparison, trust, tie strength, and network homophily on brand identification, brand engagement, brand commitment, and membership intention. Telematics and Informatics, 34(1), 412-424
Recklies, D. (2006). Understanding and managing customer perception. TheManager.org.
Rocamora, A. (2011). Personal fashion blogs: Screens and mirrors in digital self-portraits. Fashion Theory, 15(4), 407-424
Rocamora, A. (2012). Hypertextuality and remediation in the fashion media: The case of fashion blogs. Journalism Practice, 6(1), 92-106.
Savage, M., Warde, A., & Devine, F. (2005). Capitals, assets, and resources: some critical issues 1. The British journal of sociology, 56(1), 31-47
Smith, E. A., & Bliege Bird, R. (2005). Costly signaling and cooperative behavior. Moral sentiments and material interests: The foundations of cooperation in economic life, 6, 115.
Swartz, D. L. (1997). Culture & Power: The Sociology of Pierre Bourdieu. Chicago: The University of Chicago Press.
Swartz, D. L. (2013). Symbolic power, politics, and intellectuals: The political sociology of Pierre Bourdieu. Chicago: Chicago University Press.
Thorton, B. B. (1966). As you were saying: The number one problem. Personnel Journal, 45, 237-38.
Wolny, J., & Mueller, C. (2013). Analysis of fashion consumers’ motives to engage in electronic word-of-mouth communication through social media platforms. Journal of Marketing Management, 29(5-6), 562-583.
Repository Staff Only: item control page