Login | Register

Crafting Clothing: An Art Historical Exploration of the Products and Practices of Small-Scale Garment Manufacturing

Title:

Crafting Clothing: An Art Historical Exploration of the Products and Practices of Small-Scale Garment Manufacturing

Stanfield, Evan (2019) Crafting Clothing: An Art Historical Exploration of the Products and Practices of Small-Scale Garment Manufacturing. Masters thesis, Concordia University.

[thumbnail of Stanfield_MA_F2019.pdf]
Preview
Text (application/pdf)
Stanfield_MA_F2019.pdf - Accepted Version
Available under License Spectrum Terms of Access.
4MB

Abstract

In response to various social and aesthetic concerns, clothing companies are increasingly rejecting the mass production and global supply chains that typify the contemporary garment industry in favour of small-scale and localized production. Many of the values and strategies they are now adhering to recall the ideals of crafting that were developed during the British Arts and Crafts movement in the late 19th century. The current implementation of these ideals – centred on a desire for the conditions of labor to be pleasant and stimulating and a belief that labor itself should entail a considerable amount of skill and creativity – reveals a potentially radical intersection between modern manufacturing and traditional crafting. This thesis explores the recent emergence of an interest in crafting within the garment industry. It focuses on two notable examples of Canadian clothing companies currently engaged in small-scale, localized garment manufacturing: Atelier b. and Betina Lou. Through interviews with the founders of both companies and analyses of their products and production processes, this thesis investigates how, and to what extent, small-scale garment manufacturing emulates the Arts and Crafts movement’s ideals of crafting. In turn, it proposes how art historical enquiry can be directed towards the garment industry as an important site of contemporary craft activity where practices are currently being inspired by theories that were developed over a century ago.

Divisions:Concordia University > Faculty of Fine Arts > Art History
Item Type:Thesis (Masters)
Authors:Stanfield, Evan
Institution:Concordia University
Degree Name:M.A.
Program:Art History
Date:August 2019
Thesis Supervisor(s):Cheasley Paterson, Elaine
Keywords:Art History Craft History Material Culture Small Scale Manufacturing Garment Industry Slow Fashion Arts and Crafts Movement Canadian
ID Code:985737
Deposited By: EVAN STANFIELD
Deposited On:15 Nov 2019 14:39
Last Modified:15 Nov 2019 14:39

References:

Abernathy, Frederick H., John T. Dunlop, Janice H. Hammond, and David Weil. A Stitch in Time: Lean Retailing and the Transformation of Manufacturing - Lessons from the Apparel and Textile Industries. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999.

Adamson, Glenn. “Introduction to Section 7: Contemporary Approaches.” In The Craft Reader, edited by Glenn Adamson, 585-587. New York: BERG, 2010.

———. The Invention of Craft. New York: Bloomsbury, 2013.

Allen, Kieran. Marx and the Alternative to Capitalism. London: Pluto Press, 2011.

Allen, Thomas, and Jennifer Blair. “Endless Material: The Future of Things in Canada.” In Material Cultures in Canada, edited by Thomas Allen and Jennifer Blair, 232-332. Waterloo, ON: Wilfred Laurier University Press, 2015.

Anzia, Nicole. “Life is easier with a capsule wardrobe.” The Washington Post. May 8, 2018. Home & Garden; Perspective. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/home/life-is-easier-with-a-capsule-wardrobe/2018/05/07/708d5b14-4d74-11e8-b725-92c89fe3ca4c_story.html/.

Arscott, Caroline. “William Morris: Decoration and Materialism.” In Marxism and the History of Art: From William Morris to the New Left, edited by Andrew Hemingway, 9-27. Ann Arbor, MI: Pluto Press, 2006.

Ashbee, C.R. “Memoirs.” Unpublished transcript. Vol. 4., 1938. Victoria & Albert Museum Library.

Atelier. b. “Atelier b.: Our Vision; The Brand in a Few Words.” Collabos. Accessed September 21, 2018. https://atelier-b.ca/en/collabos/.

Bain, Marc. “The International Project to Fix Bangladesh’s Garment Industry May End in a Whimper. Unfinished Business. QUARTZ. Last modified December 6, 2018. https://qz.com/1483772/bangladeshs-accord-formed-after-the-rana-plaza-factory-collapse-is-being-pushed-out/.

Balakrishnan, Jaydeep, Janice B. Eliasson, and Timothy R. C. Sweet. “Factors Affecting the Evolution of Manufacturing in Canada: An Historical Perspective.” Journal of Operations Management 25, no. 2 (2007): 260-283. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/4681/2d1d57530076994246e12a949ef5a967f1a8.pdf.

Berberyan, Zara, Sarah Margaretha Jastram, and Barry A. Friedman. “Drivers and Obstacles of Ethical Fashion Consumption.” In Eco-Friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behavior, edited by Carolin Becker-Leifhold and Mark Heuer, 36-48. London and New York: Routledge, 2018.

Berger, Arthur Asa. What Objects Mean: An Introduction to Material Culture, 2nd ed. Walnut Creek, CA: Left Coast Press, 2014.

Betina Lou. “The Brand; The Workshop-Boutique.” About. Accessed September 21, 2018. https://www.betinalou.com/en/page/about.html.

Blakesley, Rosalind P. The Arts and Crafts Movement. London: Phaidon, 2006.

Boris, Eileen. Art and Labor: Ruskin, Morris, and the Craftsman Ideal in America. Philadelphia: Temple University Press, 1986.

———. “Crafts Shop or Sweatshop? The Uses and Abuses of Craftsmanship in Twentieth Century America.” Journal of Design History 2, no. 2/3 (1989): 175-192. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/1315807.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3A9e7204402fab680f1bfff055c26c3539/.

Bowe, Nicola Gordon, and Elizabeth Cumming. The Arts and Crafts Movements in Dublin & Edinburgh: 1885-1925. Dublin, Ireland: Irish Academic Press, 1998.

Burawoy, Michael. The Politics of Production: Factory Regimes Under Capitalism and Socialism. London: Verso, 1985.

Cariou, Gail. “Enduring Roots: Gibb and Co. and the Nineteenth Century Tailoring Trade in Montreal.” In Fashion: A Canadian Perspective, edited by Alexandra Palmer, 182-202. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 2004.

Carlyle, Thomas. “Signs of the Times,” In Edinburgh Review, June 1829 in A Carlyle Reader; Selections from the Writings of Thomas Carlyle, edited by George Bernhard Tennyson, 31-54. New York: Modern Library, 1969.

“The Case for Brands.” Economist, September 8, 2001.

Cheasley Paterson, Elaine, and Susan Surette, eds. Sloppy Craft: Postdisciplinarity and the Crafts. New York: Bloomsbury, 2015.

Collins, Jane Lou. Threads: Gender, Labor, and Power in the Global Apparel Industry. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2003.

Delap, Leanne. “Fashion Designers Are Making Manufacturing in Canada Cool Again. Life Fashion & Style. The Toronto Star. Last modified September 23, 2017. https://www.thestar.com/life/fashion_style/2017/09/23/made-in-canada-is-cool-again.html/.

Dichter, Ernest. “Textiles: The Fabric of Life.” In The Consumer Society Reader, edited by Martyn J. Lee, 228-232. Malden, MA: Blackwood Publishers, 2000.

Dormer, Peter, ed. The Culture of Craft. Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press, 1997.

Emond, Marie-Ève. “La Revolution de la Mode a Besoin de Vous.” La Presse. April 26, 2018. Débats. http://plus.lapresse.ca/screens/dd2cf7ee-a755-4507-b8d1-334b21ba81f5__7C___0.html

English, Bonnie. A Cultural History of Fashion in the Twentieth Century: From the Catwalk to the Sidewalk. New York: BERG, 2007.

Epstein, Steven A. Wage Labor and Guilds in Medieval Europe. Chapel Hill: The University of North Carolina Press, 1991.

Esbenshade, Jill. Monitoring Sweatshops: Workers, Consumers, and the Global Apparel Industry. Philadelphia, Temple University Press, 2004.

———. "The social accountability contract: Private monitoring from Los Angeles to the global apparel industry." Labor Studies Journal 26, no. 1 (2001): 98-120. https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0160449X0102600107/.

Fashion Revolution Foundation. “2018 Impact.” Manifesto. Accessed August 01, 2019. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/2018-impact/.

———. “Manifesto for a Fashion Revolution.” Manifesto. Accessed April 03, 2018. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/manifesto/.

———. “Why Do We Need A Fashion Revolution?” About. Accessed April 03, 2018. https://www.fashionrevolution.org/about/why-do-we-need-a-fashion-revolution/.

Fibres Collective. “Mission.” About. Translated by Google. Accessed September 21, 2018. https://www.facebook.com/pg/fibrescollectiv/about/.

Fletcher, Kate, and Lynda Grose. Fashion & Sustainability: Design for Change. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2012.

Fukunishi, Takahiro, and Tatsufumi Yamagata. The Garment Industry in Low Income Countries: An Entry Point of Industrialization. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2014.

Gale, Colin, and Jasbir Kaur. The Textile Book. New York: Berg, 2002.

Gordon, Beverly. Textiles, The Whole Story: Uses, Meanings, Significance. New York, Thames and Hudson 2011.

Greensted, Mary, ed. An Anthology of the Arts and Crafts Movement: Writings by Ashbee, Lethaby, Gimson, and their Contemporaries. Burlington, VT: Lund Humphries, 2005.

Gwilt, Alison, and Timo Rissanen. “Case Study: Slowing Fashion.” In Shaping Sustainable Fashion, edited by Alison Gwilt and Timo Rissanen. London: Earthscan, 2011.

Helland, Janice. British and Irish Home Arts and Industries 1880-1914: Marketing Craft, Making Fashion. Dublin, Ireland: Irish Academic Press, 2007.

Helland, Janice, Beverly Lemire, and Alena Buis, eds. Craft, Community, and the Material Culture of Place and Politics, 19th–20th Century. Burlington, VT: Ashgate, 2014.

Holgate, Mark. “As Zara Announces Its Latest Sustainability Goals, Three of Its Design Team
Weigh In on Going Slower and Creating Responsibly.” Runway. Vogue. Last modified July 16, 2019. https://www.vogue.com/article/zara-sustainable-initiatives/.

Honoré, Carl. In Praise of Slowness: How a Worldwide Movement is Challenging the Cult of Speed. San Francisco: Harper Collins, 2004.

Horlamus, Terry. “Making Sense of Pattern Grading.” How-To. Threads. Last Modified November 1, 2008. https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/01/making-sense-of-pattern-grading/.

Howard, Alan. “Labor, History, and Sweatshops in the New Global Economy.” In The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production, edited by Joan Livingstone and John Ploof, 31-50. Chicago: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Press, 2007.

Hughes, Peter. “Towards a Post-Consumer Subjectivity: A future for the Crafts in the Twenty First Century?” Craft + Design Enquiry 3 (January 2011): 1-18, Art Full Text (H.W. Wilson), EBSCOhost (accessed September 21, 2016).

Hunter, Alan, Russell King, and Robert H. Lowson, The Textile/Clothing Pipeline and Quick Response Management. Manchester: The Textile Institute, 2002.

INLAND. “About.” Accessed February 14, 2019. https://www.madeinland.ca/about/.

Kaplan, Wendy. The Arts & Crafts Movement in Europe & America: Design for the Modern World. New York: Thames and Hudson, 2004.

Landes, David S. The Unbound Prometheus: Technological Change and Industrial Development in Western Europe from 1750 to the Present. 2nd ed. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003.

Lebowitz, Michael A. Beyond Capital: Marx’s Political Economy of the Working Class. 2nd ed. New York: Palgrave MacMillan, 2003.

Lee, Young. “Stitches per Inch: What It is and Why It Matters.” Lists. Heddles. Last modified February 1, 2015. https://www.heddels.com/2015/02/stitches-per-inch-matters/.

Lemire, Beverly. Dress, Culture, and Commerce: The English Clothing Trade Before the Factory, 1660-1800. London: MacMillan Press Ltd., 1997.

Livingstone, Karen, and Linda Parry, eds. International Arts and Crafts. London: V&A Publications, 2005.

Luckman, Susan. Locating Cultural Work: The Politics and Poetics of Rural, Regional, and Remote Creativity. New York: Palgrave Macmillan, 2012.

Luckman, Susan, and Nicola Thomas, eds. Craft Economies. London and New York: Bloomsbury, 2018. https://0-ebookcentral-proquest-com.mercury.concordia.ca/lib/concordia-ebooks/reader.action?docID=5226721/.

Malarcher, Patricia. “Critical Approaches: Fragments from an Evolution.” In Objects and Meaning: New Perspectives on Art and Craft, edited by M. Anna Fariello and Paula Owen, 36-53. Lanham, MD: Scarecrow Press, 2004.

Marx, Karl. “Chapter 15: Machinery and Large-Scale Industry.” In Capital: Volume I: A Critique of Political Economy, Reprint Edition, translated by Ben Fowkes, 492-641. London: Penguin Classics, 2004. Page references are to 2004 edition.

The Metropolitan Fashion Cluster. “Industry Portrait.” Industry. Accessed March 10, 2019. https://mmode.ca/en/industry/portrait/.

Morris, William. “The Socialist Ideal.” In The Collected Works of William Morris, Vol. 22, Signs of Change; Lectures on Socialism, edited by May Morris. 3-27. London and New York: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1910-15.

Naylor, Gillian. The Arts and Crafts Movement: A Study of Its Sources, Ideals, and Influence on Design Theory. London: Studio Vista, 1971.

Parry, Linda. William Morris: Textiles. New York: The Viking Press, 1983.

Prown, Jules David. “Mind in Matter: An Introduction to Material Culture Theory and Method.” Winterthur Portfolio 71, no. 1 (Spring 1982): 1-19.

Pye, David. The Nature and Art of Workmanship. London: Cambridge University Press, 1968.

Rabchuck, Gordon K. “The Quebec Garment Industry: A Study of the Failure to Stabilize Production and Wages, 1926-1937.” MA thesis, Concordia University, 1982.

Rifkin, Jeremy. The End of Work: The Decline of the Global Labor Force and the Dawn of the Post-Market Era. New York: G.P. Putnam's Sons, 1995.

Robertson, Kirsty, and Lisa Vinebaum. “Crafting Community.” TEXTLE: Cloth and Culture 14, no. 1 (2016): 2-13. https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/14759756.2016.1084794/.

Rosen, Ellen Israel. Making Sweatshops: The Globalization of the U.S. Apparel Industry. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002.

Ruskin, John. The Works of John Ruskin. Vol. 7, edited by Edward Tyas Cook and Alexander D. O. Wedderburn. New York: Longmans, Green, and Co., 1904.

Samha, Barry. “How H&M Is Striving to Become a Sustainable Fashion Brand.” Style & Design. Forbes. Last modified March 26, 2018. https://www.forbes.com/sites/barrysamaha/
2018/03/26/hm-conscious-exclusive-collection-2018-sustainable-fashion-anna-gedda-interview/#589cf36274f0/.

Schor, Juliet B. Plentitude: The New Economics of True Wealth. New York, The Penguin Press, 2010.

Seabrook, Jeremy. The Song of the Shirt: Cheap Clothes Across Continents and Countries. Halifax and Winnipeg: Fernwood Publishing, 2014.

Shales, Ezra. The Shape of Craft. London, UK: Reaktion Books, 2017.

Sherlock, Maureen P. “Piecework: Home, Factory, Studio, Exhibit.” In The Object of Labor: Art, Cloth, and Cultural Production, edited by Joan Livingstone and John Ploof, 1-30. Chicago: School of the Art Institute of Chicago Press, 2007.

Shuck, David. “Understanding Cost Per Wear – The Only Metric that Matters.” Lists. Heddles. Last modified April 26, 2018. https://www.heddels.com/2018/04/understanding-cost-per-wear-the-only-metric-that-matters/.

Smith, Peter. “Attractive Labour and Social Change: William Morris Now.” In William Morris in the Twenty-First Century, edited by Phillippa Bennett and Rosie Miles, 129-150. Oxford: Peter Lang, 2010.

Solomon, Maynard. “William Morris.” In Marxism and Art: Essays Classic and Contemporary, edited by Maynard Solomon, 79-90. Detroit: Wayne State University Press, 1979.

Stein, Leon, ed. Out of the Sweatshop: The Struggle for Industrial Democracy. New York: Quadrangle, 1977.

Stories MTL. “Who Are We?” About. Translated by Google. Accessed September 21, 2018. https://www.facebook.com/pg/fibrescollectiv/about/.

Sumner, Mark. “Mind the Gap: Fashion Consumers’ Intentions and Behaviors.” In Eco-Friendly and Fair: Fast Fashion and Consumer Behavior, edited by Carolin Becker-Leifhold and Mark Heuer, 27-35. London and New York: Routledge, 2018.

Victoria & Albert Collections. “Summary.” Clock; C. F. A. Voysey, born 1857 – died 1941. Accessed September 21, 2018. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O347106/clock-c-f-a/.

———. “Summary.” Salt Cellar: Ashbee, Charles Robert, born 1863 – died 1942. Accessed September 21, 2018. http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O94792/salt-cellar-ashbee-charles-robert/.

Weinroth, Michelle, and Paul Leduc Browne, eds. To Build a Shadowy Isle of Bliss: William Morris’s Radicalism and the Embodiment of Dreams. Montreal and Kingston: McGill-Queen’s University Press, 2015.

Wilkinson-Weber, Claire M., and Alicia Orly DeNicola. “Introduction: Taking Stock of Craft in Anthropology.” In Critical Craft: Technology. Globalization, and Capitalism, edited by Claire M. Wilkinson-Weber and Alicia Orly DeNicola, 1-16. London, New York: Bloomsbury Academic, 2016.

Williams, Raymond. “Art and Society: A.W. Pugin, John Ruskin, William Morris.” In Culture and Society: 1780-1950, 130-160. New York: Columbia University Press, 1983.

Wolff, Janet. The Social Production of Art, 2nd ed. New York: New York University Press, 1993.

Yonan, Michael. “Toward a Fusion of Art History and Material Culture Studies.” West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture 18, no 2 (2011): 232-248. https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.1086/662520?seq=1#metadata_info_tab_contents/. (accessed December 01, 2016).
All items in Spectrum are protected by copyright, with all rights reserved. The use of items is governed by Spectrum's terms of access.

Repository Staff Only: item control page

Downloads per month over past year

Research related to the current document (at the CORE website)
- Research related to the current document (at the CORE website)
Back to top Back to top