Abstract

This research-creation explores how traditional Japanese materials and methods can inform the production of a garment that contributes to understanding alternative clothing design and consumption practices. The thesis is a response to the unsustainability of a fast-paced industry driven by low-cost production, toxic dyes, material waste, disposability, and overconsumption at the expense of the environment. Moving towards a sustainable future requires rethinking the entire garment lifecycle from sourcing to production and consumption.

Japan’s rich traditional textile history of using diverse bast fibers, natural dyes, and small run and no waste productions may offer designers a way forward. In this thesis, the principles of mottainai and shinto are intertwined with slow fashion and design-with-care. The research methodology was conducted in three phases: (i) an experiential field study in Japan; (ii) a contextual analysis of formal literature and experiential learning; and (iii) material and performative experimentation through sourcing of biodegradable materials and food waste for colouring; carrying out dye experiments; zero-waste patterning, to uncover viable solutions. The result of my investigations is a hanten, a traditional Japanese jacket, which I adapted for use in the Quebec winter climate.

Further emphasizing the Quebec context, I worked in collaboration with local professionals for the jacket’s quilted milkweed insulation and patternmaking and sewing techniques. My aim has been to design a one-off garment prototype to represent some of my ideas and processes. In future research-creation, I hope to address the potential of this thesis paper and hanten jacket as a model for multi-garment production in Quebec.